Ang Tunay na INASAL

Last February, before we opened our own inasal store in Megamall, my husband who is from Bacolod, asked me to go to his hometown and "train" in the land of inasal -- MANOKAN COUNTRY. After trying several chicken inasal in the most popular places in Manila, he still wanted to go after the "real" and "orig" taste that he grew up with. 

So off I went to Bacolod, landed in the new spanking airport in Silay and went straight to Manokan Country which now sits right across SM Bacolod. Immediately, we scouted the best of the best chicken inasal restaurants in the area and spotted the biggest one in the middle of the inasal strip: NENA'S BETH Chicken Inasal. I looked around and up at the sign hanging on the resto and wondered why the name with two names?? 

But first order of the day was to "order" and we did! Chicken inasal is actually street food in Bacolod and in Manokan Country, you at least get to eat at a table and not standing on a street munching away on a piece of "pechopak" or "pa-a." Here in NENA'S BETH, we were seated fairly comfortably and our table was laden with the standard condiments that add to the flavor of the chicken inasal: sinamak, toyo, chicken oil, calamansi and siling labuyo for that added kick.

 

Sinamak is the Visayan vinaigrette of sorts - a mixture of native coco vinegar with garlic, ginger, onions and chili. That's the base of the dipping sauce for the inasal. With some sinamak, you add a tablespoon or so of soy sauce or toyo, squeeze a calamansi and put a piece of siling labuyo. 

Of course, in MANOKAN COUNTRY there is nothing but inasal on the menu. You order the part you like best: pa-a (thigh), pechopak (breast and wing), and a variety of the innards like the isol, baticolon and liver. All are marinated in the secret inasal mix that makes NENA'S BETH and the rest of the restos on the strip distinct from the inasalans in Manila. 

We had our fill of chicken inasal served with steaming hot rice. That's all you need in MANOKAN COUNTRY and everyone's encouraged to eat with their hands. You get a spoon and fork only if you ask  - and let's not even ask for knives here... Some of the restaurants also serve other Ilonggo food like oysters and really large mussels (tahong) but the people go to MANOKAN mainly for the chicken. 

A talk with the owner of NENA'S BETH, Beth Baker, revealed the origins of their restaurant and why the two names. While she's Beth, her mother's name is NENA and so go the names of the restaurants of her other siblings. They are originally from Iloilo and her mother is one of the very first Ilonggas who made the street food a popular dish when they moved to Bacolod and set up their chicken inasalan there. Today, several restaurants carry their mother's name, NENA and then append their names after - as in NENA'S BETH, and so on. 

The chicken inasal recipe of Beth remains true to their mother's secret recipe and while there have been a lot of enterprising people who have asked for the recipe, they share it only with those whom they believe will promote the originality of the dish. A popular actor managed to get the recipe but as Beth says, it does not yield the authentic inasal taste, perhaps because a recipe that is simply passed on by word of mouth is not enough. You have to immerse yourself in the art of inasal-making to master it and later on, to replicate the color, flavor, aroma and the whole experience of eating Bacolod chicken inasal. 

Suffice it to say that after eating a few whole chicken inasal(s), I am now an expert. And Ms. Baker was kind enough to let us observe and capture the essence of cooking real chicken inasal - from doing the authentic inasal marinade to the right way of cutting the chicken pieces, to skewering the chickens, to grilling them over live hot coals, and then to making the famous chicken oil or achuete oil for brushing the chicken and topping your steamed rice. There's also the making of the sinamak which is a secret concoction in itself. 

It was a heady experience being there and witnessing the true Filipino way of creating a chicken barbecue that has made its way from Bacolod into the heart of all Filipinos in Manila and beyond: CHICKEN INASAL. Our thanks to the Bakers from the City of Smiles for their warmth and hospitality!