Paying Homage to Her Royal Highness : ALING LUCING

I had meant to write this article after going on a culinary day-tour that ended in a pilgrimage to a culinary shrine, Aling Lucing’s Sisig in Pampanga. Upon reaching the eatery one rainy afternoon, it certainly felt like setting foot on hallowed ground.

Having heard so many stories about the award-winning sisig place, I was determined to find out why the 80-year old culinary icon was befitting the title of royalty bestowed on her: Lucia Lagman Cunanan - SISIG QUEEN. What was the secret behind her tasty take on the crunchy mix of boiled and chopped bits of pig’s cheeks, ears and snout? What set her apart from all of Pampanga’s and the nation’s sisig-churners, enough for her to be hailed the Grand Slam Winner of the 2005 Sisig Festival in Angeles City over 176 competitors? 

Of course, my personal curiosity over Aling Lucing’s success came from my desire to improve on our own sisig dishes served in our food establishments. But after reaching Aling Lucing’s restaurant to unravel the mystery behind her sisig right where it all began, I stood there amazed at the Queen’s tenacity, her own passion to be the best among her fellow Kapampangans who are all known to possess high-grade culinary genes in their DNA. She is proud to be the best in a league of her own, dishing out what is the most flavorful showcase of the “pambansang pulutan.”

I have not had the chance to sample the other sisig recipes of Pampanga or those that competed versus Aling Lucing’s Sisig. But having a spoonful of freshly prepared sisig in her store raises your eyebrows, widens your eyes and makes you believe that the judges had good reason to laud the dish and heap awards on it.

Aling Lucing’s pork sisig, the original kind served in her restaurant since 1974, had just the right salty-crispy taste. Its crunchiness came from grilling the pork over hot charcoal and then chopping it to bits before it is mixed with mashed chicken liver and minced onions. It is laden with MSG which enhances the flavor of the dish and then sprinkled with calamansi juice and served with a dipping sauce of soy and vinegar with chopped onions and siling labuyo. It is also served on a sizzling plate to keep the dish hot, allowing the diner to scrape the scrumptious crunchy bits that cling to the hot plate. 

It has been two years since that trip to Aling Lucing’s in Pampanga and exactly a year after her tragic death – a stabbing that has been left unresolved. Her death was made even more tragic by nasty jokes that alluded to her having the same fate as the main ingredients of the dish that made her famous. Certainly, Aling Lucing was herself famous as the “rich and famous” park their SUVs alongside the humble eatery near the railroad tracks to have their fix of the most devilishly-delightful pulutan ever created.

Today, sisig is no longer just bar chow. It has evolved to being a regular viand, eaten with hot steaming rice and sometimes even with a side dish of vegetables. Too bad, Aling Lucing did not live long enough to see her legacy being continued. But time will tell if the passion that set Aling Lucing apart from the rest will be carried on by her heirs and yes, her franchisees. For there are Aling Lucing stalls now in foodcourts and some dine-ins in the metro. It is up to us to see if they live up to the memory of the one who is to be known, perhaps for all time, as the QUEEN OF SISIG. 

Long live the Queen!